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Your Trade In Price.. So You Want A Top Dollar Trade In? More

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------- HINTS & TIPS ------
Secrets - Getting The Best Trade-in Price

So You Want A Top Dollar Trade In?
And why not! It has been a good car. It's never let you down and that little dent was done by someone else at the supermarket four years ago.

To get the best price you need to give yourself a sporting chance. All too often a car will be traded with little or no registration, at least two tyres low enough to require replacement prior to resale, a chip or crack in the windscreen.. more...
 

The Demonstration Drive Check List

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Accidents

A test drive is important, but BE WARNED, you run the risk of substantial claims being made against you if you have an accident. Check with the dealer on your liability before you decide to go for a test drive. (if private, ensure the vehicle is insured and that you would be covered in the event of an accident ie are there age restrictions on the policy)

Remember vehicles purchased from a licensed motor dealer are GUARANTEED clear title!

"Quality remains long after the price has been forgotten". ......

Accept that most used cars will have had some paint work completed. They will have come to the dealer with stone chips across the nose and some scuff marks on the polypropylene (pronounced plastic) bumpers as general wear and tear. You are looking for substantial accident damage.

Don’t rule the car out if you find one thing mentioned below. It may be that it was stone chip repairs if for example there was a little over spray on the rubber surrounding the headlight or alignment correction from new. But, If you find numerous things as you go through your check list consider looking at another vehicle

The walk around

  • Beware late model cars on non franchise yards

  • Always do your inspection in daylight.

  • Look for any obvious colour mismatches on any panels

  • Compare panel alignment - Are the gaps between the doors and guards, guards and bonnet, guards and boot even.

  • Open the fuel filler cap and check to see if there is a visible masking line or even masking tape left behind by a panel shop.

  • Check all window moulds and light trim for telltale over spray.

  • Look under the bonnet and inspect the bolts that hold the guards in place for signs that a spanner has been used.

  • Open the boot and look under the spare wheel for remnants of shattered window glass.

  • Under the bonnet

  • If the car is cold and only if the car is cold, remove the radiator cap - ensure the green radiator coolant covering the radiator core

  • look for any oil floating on the top of the coolant/water mixture

  • Check the engine oil level on the dip stick whilst the car is cold - ensure it is at the right level and is clean (on late model cars they are usually yellow or orange and easy to spot. If it is an older model, London to a brick they will be grey).

  • Take note of the transmission dip stick location (only if it is an automatic)

  • Inside the car

    critique the interior and remember you are not buying a stereo. You are buying a car.

  • Is the drivers seat wear consistent with the rest of the vehicle

  • Is the steering wheel showing abnormal wear.

  • Are the peddles heavily worn - on its own this need not be a problem, check the breaks out thoroughly on the test drive.

  • Check the service label on the windscreen - then cross reference this with the service books. They may be in the glove box although, more and more dealers are keeping them in the office these days to avoid theft. Ask to see them.

  • Check the seat belt webbing - no nicks or cuts are allowed.

  • If you are a non smoker check the ashtray.

  • Check the windscreen from the inside out.

  • Finally check the radio and try a tape or cd as well.

  • Once again you should remember what we have discussed before. One thing on its own may not be cause to put a cross through a car. It usually means just pay a bit more attention to the other things. Remember it is a used car and will have a degree of wear and tear.

    The test drive

  • Trust your sixth sense

  • Check that the registration label is current.

  • If the engine is cold pay close attention to how hard it is to cold start - may indicate it is due for a service.

  • Ask the sales person to let it idle for a few minutes, then rev the engine up to about 4500 rpm for a few seconds. If you see “a puff of smoke” - blue or grey it is a warning sign that it is burning oil and has a problem and I suggest you look for another vehicle. If it is black the engines fuel mix it too rich and needs attention. (a small short puff of black smoke at the moment of acceleration is fine and nothing to worry about and don't confuse steam on warm up or in cold conditions with smoke)

  • Check for any substantial oil leaks - look where the car was parked for tell tale signs on the concrete.

  • Check that accessory items such as the air conditioning work.

  • Travel on suburban streets and open roads.

  • Accelerate from a stand still - is the car smooth and stable. Can you hear any knocks or groans?

  • Obtain cruising speed of say 80-100 kph then accelerate as if to pass a vehicle - Check that the transmission down-shifts properly and is not slipping.

  • Pay attention for vibration in the body - could indicate worn universal joints or engine mounts.

  • Vibration, wobble or a pulling left or right in the steering - could indicate poor wheel balance/alignment or worn steering components.

  • Vibration in the brake peddle - could indicate warped discs.

  •  

    Pay particular attention to the transmission and suspension, pullover in a vacant parking lot somewhere. If there is a lag in the shift, or any noises that occur at this time they warrant further investigation. Things such as whining or clunking are dead giveaways that all is not well. Broken engine or transmission mounts are usually detected at this time. They are often characterised with a definite clink or knocking noise.

  • With the engine still running shift from park to drive - take note of how long it takes the transmission to engage.

  • Shift from drive to reverse and mentally record how long this action takes to engage - it should be a smooth purposeful transition, not a slip or slide into gear, and it should be swift.

  • If the vehicle is a front wheel drive check the constant velocity joints.

  • Engaging the drive gear turn the wheel to full lock right and slowly accelerate - to test the other side, repeat this procedure with full lock left.

  • Listen for a clicking noise from the front of the vehicle - if you hear a noise the C.V's will need to be replaced.This shouldn’t stop you from buying the car as it is a maintenance item and once replaced should provide years of trouble free motoring.

  • On a level surface pop the bonnet. With the transmission in neutral, the engine running and the hand brake engaged hop out of the car.

  • Locate the transmission dip stick and check the levels on the indicator.

  • Check the colour of the oil. It should be a pinkish red colour.

  • Smell it. It shouldn't smell burnt.

  • At each corner of the car and push down with all your body weight quickly releasing allowing the suspension to rebound.

  • It should rebound once and stop. If it springs up and down a few times this car has worn suspension.

  • The car should sit evenly sprung without a lean or sag in any preferred direction. Pay attention to the handling of the car. Does it "roll" into corners? Does it bounce along after encountering a bump in the road?

  • Make a note of any items that attract your attention - ask that they be fixed as a condition of sale. Get it in writing on the order form.

  • Back at the dealership

    Negotiate a reasonable deal that is fair to both parties. One that takes into consideration any items you will want seen to. Be fair and you will find the dealer the same. Show common courtesies and remember "Quality remains long after the price has been forgotten."

    “Just to be sure”... arrange to have the car overnight or for the rest of the day. Go over the car again and go for a longer drive just to be sure.

    Give the dealer the time and the opportunity to secure you the best trade in price.

    Remember it is a business with numerous staff and it is entitled to make a reasonable profit.

    The trade in

  • If the tyres are very low consider some good second hand tyres. You will be surprised how for between $50 and $70 dollars you will be able to get a replacement tyre with about 70% tread.

  • Try and keep three months plus of rego left on the trade in.

  • Put some new floor mats down. They are inexpensive!

  • A cheap set of seat covers from the auto shop can do wonders.

  • Get a professional automotive detail. They will clean the engine bay, clean the interior including a shampoo, paint the tyres, clean all the glass and give the duco a professionl cut and polish. (Obviously if it is a rat to start with it will still be a rat. But, if it is a good car in need of a little sprucing to show its best features you will not regret the effort)


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